Pattern: Sewaholic Cambie, version A
Fabric: Michael Miller Blue & White Azure quilting cotton
Cut & Size: 12 bodice, graded to 14 at waist, pulled back in after FBA dart fiasco to 12. Graded to 16 hips.
I ordered this pattern ages ago and searched all the blogs to see how it looks on larger women. (I was worried about the sewn in waistband)... it looks cute! I was also worried about the wide shoulder straps, but so many versions look good and the straps become sleeves when well.
I found and used a great FBA tutorial! Yay. My first muslin worked okay- but upon making the full dress, I realized I made a mistake with the width of the lower edge- my three darts do not combine into the same width as the huge dart. Whoops. So I had to make a dart/pleat, that combined the three darts into one and ended halfway up. It's amazing how not bad it looks. Seriously lucky.
View of the darts/pleat on the inside bodice.
Due to the thick nature of the quilting cotton, I decided to line only the bodice. This was easy enough with the "stitch in the ditch" directions for attaching the lining.
I narrowed the waistline band to match the border pattern of the a material... and I have come to hate interfacing, so I did not use any. Instead, I left the full seams in place uncut along the waist line where they overlapped in the middle. There is no real bulk problem but we'll see after the first wash if I need to make changes.
In the final dress, the waistband is a little lower than my natural waist, so for the next dress it might be worthwhile to shorten the bodice by no more than an inch.
All other seams are either folded in on each other and stitched or pinked.
One pocket was cut incorrectly and so it is inside out on the dress, but luckily the print is so busy it's very hard to notice. From the inside, it's quite obvious. I ran out of fabric so I couldn't cut a new one.
I used the border along the back zipper and I think it looks great- but I wish I'd used the border for the bottom of the skirt too. I think that orientation would look nice with the horizontal bodice.