Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Poppy Bruyère shirt!

I was saving this gorgeous Liberty of London print for something special. It's called Hannah's poppy, in red... Then the Bruyère shirt from Deer & Doe came along and I knew I was ready!

Despite all the lessons I've learned in the past, and without regard for the preciousness of the fabric, I made the shirt without a muslin. What, why, stupid, stupid, stupid! I am stupid and impatient.

From other Deer & Doe patterns, I know that they are designed for a C cup, so I did add an inch FBA. For the bodice, I measured by my upper bust, cutting a 42 on top, grading out to 44 on the waist, and 46 to the bottom of the shirt. The result is a shirt that fits like a tight glove... without the flexibility... I am missing some ease that would be appreciated. The sleeves and back are very fitted, but I still get full arm rotation and rowing motion without pulling the shirt out of place.

Btw, the construction of the button placket is brilliant! It's a folded accordian with the collar and inner facing sandwiched in the folds... so I was able to get and extra centimeter or two of fabric in the front bodice by pinning the placket near the edge of the bodice front pieces. This final adjustment allowed me to pin the shirt shut without caving in my chest.

Luckily my fiddling paid off and now the shirt fits without popping buttons (not that I've installed buttons yet - I have to find the perfect set) if I wear one particular bra with smooshing magic. I'll have to forgo meals when wearing the shirt, and probably I ought to skip dinner/drinks the day before. :)

But it is so lovely!

Everything below the waist is perfect, no changes required, it fits well. I sewed the box pleats down a few inches, knowing that they'd pop open too much and I don't need to extra emphasis on my bum or stomach.  It looks cute on the on the pattern model, but for me I like less poofiness.

As it is, I love the way the "skirt" cups my lower body. It's so cute! What an awesome design!

I can't wait to make more, one size larger. (couldn't wait, here it is) :)

Updated photos with mother of pearl white buttons:
And my small gaping problem between the waist and bust buttons... The bodice is designed a little short, so the solution might be to elongate it. For now, I'm going to ignore the problem and enjoy my beautiful new shirt.


  1. That fabric is amazing!!

    1. Thanks! It was the most expensive fabric I bought (at the time) but I could not resist! If only Liberty of London made it year round... but I'm afraid it's a "seasonal" print. :(

  2. It's is lovely , why don't you make a light voile camisole to wear under it and then leave some of your most challenging buttons open. The fabric is lovely