Despite all the lessons I've learned in the past, and without regard for the preciousness of the fabric, I made the shirt without a muslin. What, why, stupid, stupid, stupid! I am stupid and impatient.
From other Deer & Doe patterns, I know that they are designed for a C cup, so I did add an inch FBA. For the bodice, I measured by my upper bust, cutting a 42 on top, grading out to 44 on the waist, and 46 to the bottom of the shirt. The result is a shirt that fits like a tight glove... without the flexibility... I am missing some ease that would be appreciated. The sleeves and back are very fitted, but I still get full arm rotation and rowing motion without pulling the shirt out of place.
Btw, the construction of the button placket is brilliant! It's a folded accordian with the collar and inner facing sandwiched in the folds... so I was able to get and extra centimeter or two of fabric in the front bodice by pinning the placket near the edge of the bodice front pieces. This final adjustment allowed me to pin the shirt shut without caving in my chest.
But it is so lovely!
Everything below the waist is perfect, no changes required, it fits well. I sewed the box pleats down a few inches, knowing that they'd pop open too much and I don't need to extra emphasis on my bum or stomach. It looks cute on the on the pattern model, but for me I like less poofiness.