Sunday, October 5, 2014

Butterfly Bodice & Flora Skirt

My latest creation is a Butterfly dress with a fitted princess seamed bodice and a full, fluffy skirt- just in time for another SoCal heat wave...

The inspiration was the fabric print... it's a gorgeous Stenzo poplin from L'oiseau (no longer available). It's a nice smooth and strong cotton weave, with a better drape than quilting cotton but more body than voile or lawn. Now I have something to wear to the monarch butterfly groves this fall when they start to migrate for winter. Maybe one will land on me! :)

The bodice fits like a glove!

Pattern(s):The bodice is from the Butterick B5984 (which includes separate cup sizes), without the collar. The skirt is the By Hand London Flora skirt with added in seam pockets.
Cutting & Size: Bodice modified 16 with D-Cup piece. Skirt is modified 16 graded out.
Fabric: Stenzo poplin


For the bodice, I copied it out to swedish tracing paper and made a bodice muslin with a zipper. Then I pinned and sewed in all the changes I needed; narrowing the waist and underbust, larger seam allowances in the back to bring it in, etc. After that, I transferred all the changes to the pattern pieces, redrawing the ones that had the most alterations. Somehow, this tedious exacting process worked. :) Now, I can reuse this pattern for many things! So exciting.

When I bought the pattern with the bodice, I was hoping to make the full skirted dress version... but it requires 5 yards of 60" wide fabric!! The Stenzo poplin is wide but not that wide so I used my favorite Flora pattern skirt instead. The lovely butterfly fabric was just slightly too narrow by only a few inches so I had to hack in triangle wedges at the corner seams. Luckily it fits right in with the pattern. I guess I could have found a nice matching/contrasting fabric and added a border instead, but after my fussing with the bodice, I grew lazy with the skirt. 

Oh, and I made a full lining with a simple white rayon which is very nice against the skin.

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