Saturday, January 10, 2015

Asymmetry with Vogue 8787

I'm traveling for work right now, so no sewing. Instead, I'm going through a few drafts that I never published, for various reasons.

The dress below was a failure but taught me several things.

Late in the summer, after gaining confidence in my abilities, I decicded to make a dress with an asymmetrical neckline. I found Vogue pattern 8787.  I used the bodice, and adding my favorite By Hand London paneled Anna skirt.

Thankfully, I found an excellent FBA on flickr. The woman who posted the picture also has several gorgeous variations of the dress.

I think my big mistake here was using a voile cotton, the dress should really be made out of a stretchier fabric, or a stable knit, just like they recommend on the envelope...

LESSON - Believe the envelope, at least for the muslin stage.
LESSON - Muslin stage.

 This cotton voile (Birch organics, Taking flight collection) was a bit weird, it's not very soft and it creases easily. It might need to be washed a few more times to improve.

LESSON - If the fabric is still unpleasant after one wash (I know enough to wash at least once), wash it again a few times BEFORE sewing.

So, the bodice:

During the making of the dress, I realized the wide waistband would not work with my short waist so I folded it in half which did the trick, without needing a lining piece.

LESSON - Wide bands are not good on short waists (Promptly forgotten when the Dahlia pattern appeared) but it's easy enough to shorten them.

Unfortunately, it doubled the already awful interfacing I used, making the band weird and stiff.

LESSON - Not all interfacing is the same. Get the good lightweight stuff! 90% of it, the heavy stuff is not meant for summer garments... or garments at all.

The upper shoulder band refused to play nice and kept puffy up no matter how many times I ironed it. I guess my lining is screwed up? If I ever get around to it, I will top stitch the neckline.

The bodice overall, is too small (not just the FBA), and with the designed gather lines, it looks overly stressed. There isn't much I can do about that.  The skirt is okay, especially with the lining, but I think it might have been better to use a different one, shorter and fuller. 

I may try this pattern again, but using a stable knit! For now, I might topstitch the neckline... fix the zipper (didn't even mention that...) and wash it to see if the fabric softens up. If not, it goes in my giveaway pile.

LESSON - If  you do not fix it a problem when you are still excited about the possibility of the dress, it will hang around in the To Do pile forever.