Saturday, January 10, 2015

Hazel with a Flora skirt

A dress from August, 2014 (I'm finally publishing all my draft posts from 2014!)

Pattern: Colette Hazel bodice + By Hand London Flora skirt (modified)

Fabric: Vlisco Java print from a clearance sale

Cut & Size: Bodice size 10 - with FBA. 1/2 seams on bust, to 5/8 underbust... The skirt is a modified Flora, US waist 12 graded out to 14 hips with added 20cm. length and no pleats in the back (I ran out of fabric!). Not enough fabric to match prints.

Other notes: I made a full lining for the bodice as my muslin, instead of the pattern facings... and I added pockets to the skirt. The photo below is post spinning, so the bodice has rotated slightly. The straps are properly placed, I promise! :)

Result: This was a learning experience for me as my first real intentional mishmashing two patterns together. Basically, I had some leftover fabric, and I really wanted to try a full skirt... The Hazel bodice has small yardage requirements and is much cuter than the Flora options so it seemed like a good fit... and I've seen others make this work successfully on their blogs. In the end, it wasn't too hard to do.

The Hazel back fits well but the underarm side seams had to be pinched in from mid to top, post muslin. I think this might have been a bra/fitting issue... From the photos I can see that the sides still can be seamed in even tighter.

The enlarged darts from the FBA were ridiculously pointy -  and the solution of making two did not help. Instead, I elongated and sewed down to a bare milimeter at the tip. This, along with making the whole bust tighter, helped to smooth the darts into creases rather than madonna points. The tips are an inch too high, but that's a lesson I didn't learn until later.

My muslin (which became the lining) revealed that I had to add inches to the back pieces to match up the front waistline FBA. I did this when cutting and it worked well for my outer fabric. I fixed the lining with some patches. Oh well, glad it's on the inside! 

The skirt ended up surprising successful for the hack job I made of it. I ran out of fabric after the huge front panel so I had to skimp on the back pleats, and add triangular patches to the side seams at the hemline... which sort of goes with the bodice triangles, right? Ha ha, whoops.

Fortunately, the mess is barely visible. The end result is a skirt that is still hugely circular and fluffy. Fun for spinning!!

My dog is concerned about my erratic spinning behavior.

I had hoped this would be a nice casual everyday dress, but the skirt makes it feel more formal than I expected. Eventually I got over that and started wearing it with a cardigan to cover up the bodice issues. The fabric/print is just so gorgeous, it can't stay in the closet. :)


  1. Whatever about the "issues"'s AWESOME!!!!!

    1. Thanks! A lot of my dresses from last spring have issues- my skill is increasing but it's good to remember how that happened. :) I do like wearing this.