Monday, April 13, 2015

Kim dress!

Months after planning to do this, I finally did it. A Kim dress in an intense vlisco print!



The scale of the print was larger than I realized, so I had to choose a different orientation for the bodice. The skirt is cut with the fabric in the opposite direction as my original plan. I still have some hemming to do.

**Muslin admission!



 When I make a tiny bodice like the Kim dress above, I use the actual fabric to make a "muslin." I've grown confident in my ability to fix on the fly and I figure that if it's unwearable, it takes less than 1/2 yard to re-cut. Usually, it's much less than that because the back typically fits well and it is only the front that might need adjusting.

All changes are otherwise noted on my swedish paper traced pattern, for my next "perfect" post-muslin version. But with a fitted bodice, I do take the idea of a repeatable perfect fit, from perfectly adjusted pattern pieces, with some salt. My body is changeable and size/shape rarely is the same for long periods of time, (or even in the same month) so it can be hard to use a pattern consistently. I tend to make a lot of fixes during the sewing, not at the point of tracing/cutting.

The bodice is lined with a very soft slightly sheer navy voile I found in my stash.


I traced size 12 at the shoulders, to 14 at the waist. I added a small FBA to the front pieces, also using 5/8 seam at top and bottom of princess seams, 1/2 in the middle where it appeared to need extra shaping. I changed the angle of the shoulder seam for the front bodice, but it looks like the back needs it too.  

To make this a more "everyday" sort of dress, I need raise neckline... it's very low, more low than I'm typically comfortable with, but maybe once I get a nice Ondee made, it won't matter so much for this one. :) Also, WHOA! That is a freaking crazy print. It's too much. A solid top will help me feel like less of a spectacle.

The shoulder angles might improve with a larger FBA. I will try that with the next dress, while raising the neckline... Other changes I will make include NOT using a huge puffy gathered skirt. It's not for me. I put in pockets, but it still feels like a puff monster. I will find a nice multi-panel skirt like the Anna, or use (less) pleats instead of gathers.

I'm tugging down the waistline in the first pic, wearing a new Ondee coverup in the second. 


15 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. Thanks! It's hard to go wrong with vlisco.

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  2. Yes, it's crazy, but crazy good. I admit, you have to be confident, to wear that dress, but how could you possible not be confident, knowing, you made that dress. I love it. Oh, and the Ondee sweater would look cute too.

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    1. Thanks!! I need a party to go to now. :)

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  3. Love it! I'm getting ready to make a muslin of the Kim dress. I haven't sewn with any BHL patterns before.

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  4. I really do love the way you use Vlisco! This is adorable!

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    1. Thank you! It is a really awesome print... They have a few color variations left, http://www.vlisco.com/vl06028906/en/product/10522/ :)

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  5. I love your dress - the way you've placed the fabric print is awesome, and I hope you do wear it out!

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    1. Thanks! I think I'll throw a party so I can wear it. Maybe a few. :)

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  6. That fabric is to die for--wow!!! I love your work with the print placement, too. Great job!

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    1. Thanks! There are a few color variations left at vlisco, http://www.vlisco.com/vl061831-06/en/product/10526/
      It's a java print fabric, the designs are crazy detailed.

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  7. Superb! I love the fabric, the fit and the pokets!!

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  8. Gorgeous dress! I love the print! Kim is on my list, too. Hope mine turns out as nice as yours!

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