Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Layer me up Shirt

This is the Patterns for Pirates, Layer Me Up Shirt available from their etsy store. It is offered in a large range of sizes, XXS to 3X (chest 30-54 inches) and well suited to a curvy figure.

And there is a timely maternity add-on front panel here:

The first shirt I made is with a Girl Charlee cotton/spandex print. I used a serger for all seams, with Maxi-Lock "stretch" thread on the loopers and regular white poly serger thread on the needles. I love "stretch" thread! (It's not actually stretchy, instead it is "woolly" and makes a very soft seam.)

On a hanger, the maternity shirt looks a bit pouchy and weird, but on the figure it is form fitting and very comfortable. 

My first attempt is a bit long, but fits well in the bust, belly and hips. I cut a size large at the shoulders to XL at the hips. The shoulder seams are nicely curved. The neckline is a little low but easy enough to redraft. During construction, I did not use elastic to create the gathers, instead I made basting stitches and pulled the threads. The treads were then cut off during the seam serging. I chose the band option for the bottom hem.

In the end, it is really nice to have a snug shirt that comes in under the belly. I'm not into wearing skin tight things by themselves right now, so this makes the perfect layer under my various wraps/scarves and sweaters.

Serged seams below:

My next shirt has a higher neckline and shorter length without a bottom band. It is made from a Gorgeous Fabrics textured jacquard knit, very cozy and warm for mild California winter.

My third shirt is a thinner burnout print from Joann's which I can't find online for linking. I used a stretchy black knit for the neckband and hemband. I am planning to install wristbands because the hemmed sleeves stretch out too much.

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